Northeast Ridge via Knife Edge
Capitol Peak · 14,130' · Rank #31
Trail Map
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Route Details
- Distance
- 17 miles RT
- Elevation Gain
- 5,300'
- Difficulty
- Class 4
- Exposure
- Extreme
- Typical Time
- 12-16 hours
Trailhead
- Name
- Capitol Creek Trailhead
- Starting Elevation
- 9,450'
- Coordinates
- 39.1508°N, 107.0439°W
Parking & Access
- Parking
- Free Lot 50-100 spots
- Fee
- Free
- If Lot is Full
- Trailer parking area 1.9 miles before main trailhead for low-clearance vehicles
4WD recommended for last mile when wet/rutted. CAMPING PERMIT REQUIRED above cattle gate (~4 mi from TH). Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness.
Route Description
The most dangerous standard 14er route in Colorado. The 5.8-mile approach to Capitol Lake is moderate hiking. Beyond the lake, the route climbs to K2 (13,664') before traversing the infamous Knife Edge - a 150-foot exposed ridge with 2,000-foot drops on both sides. The final summit block requires Class 4 climbing.
Gear & Preparation
Helmet required. Rope and harness recommended for less experienced parties. Most climbers camp at Capitol Lake (permit required). Do not attempt in bad weather - the Knife Edge is unforgiving. This peak has the highest fatality-to-accident ratio in Colorado. Only attempt with proper experience and preparation.